I know you love quick and easy projects and YOU know I love projects with chunky yarn…..put the two together and what do you get?
One classic and simple Christmas stocking, which of course is made in my favourite size 6 super bulky yarn which not only means it’s a giant size for stuffing with loads of goodies but it’s also easy to create when you’re a little short of time.
The body of the stocking is created from shell stitch to add some rustic decoration which is perfect for the farmhouse look, create it in minimal neutral shades as I did and it has a more modern Scandinavian feel.
If this looks a bit complicated, don’t worry I’ve got your back. I have a shell stitch tutorial here for you too!
Pin it for later here
Add to your Ravelry queue
(Some of my posts contain affiliate links. If you buy something through one of these links it won’t cost you a penny more but I get a small commission. Thank you for helping to support me in bringing you new offers with my partners.)
What Materials Do I Need To Crochet My Giant Christmas Stocking?
What Size Is The Giant Crochet Christmas Stocking?
The finished stocking is approximately 20 inches (50cm) long by 8 inches wide (20cm)
Do I Need a Gauge Swatch?
I have added a gauge measurement (a 10x10cm square that you work up to test your stitch size) for you to check that your scarf will be a similar size to the measurements above.
In this pattern gauge is not important, which means that if your 10x10cm swatch is bigger or smaller that doesn’t really matter, but it may mean that you use more (or less) yarn.
I know it’s a step we ALL want to ignore but checking your gauge is a really important habit to get into, as once you progress to more complicated projects it plays an important role in making sure your project is the right size.
Trust me when I say you DON’T want to spend hours creating something beautiful that will only fit your six year old next door neighbour!
Gauge (10cmx10cm): 2 shells stitches x 3 rows
Which Stitches Do I Need To Crochet a Christmas Stocking?
Stitches Used (US American terms):
Slip Stitch (Slst)
Single Crochet (SC)
Double crochet (DC)
Single Crochet 2 together (SC2tog)
Single Crochet Back Loop Only (SCBLO)
See my tutorial on crochet shell stitch if you’re not sure.
Just a note: some patterns refer to the stitches in UK or US terms – although the stitches use the same techniques they are (rather confusingly) named differently.
For example, a chain stitch & a slip stitch is the same in both terms but a single crochet in US terms is known as a double crochet in UK terms!! ALWAYS check to see if your pattern uses UK or US terms to avoid getting frustrated and more importantly a project that just looks nothing like you had planned!!
To make an adjustable magic loop, hold the end of the yarn under your thumb wrap the yarn twice around the fingers of your left hand to create an ‘x’ shape – the working end of the yarn will be behind your fingers.
Turn your hand so the palm is facing the floor, insert the hook under the first line of yarn and hook the working yarn (nearer your knuckles), pull this yarn under the first row of yarn so you have a stitch attached to a large loop and a tail.
Your magic loop should look something like this:
Ch 2, so now you have the loop with tail ends hanging down and the chain attached to your hook, this chain is your first stitch.
Row 1 Work 11 HDC by inserting the hook through all four strands of the loop as though it is a stitch (two strands of loop plus the loose ends).
Pull the loose ends of yarn and the loop will tighten – great isn’t it?
That’s why it’s known as a magic loop!
You should now have 12 stitches in your circle, slst to the top of the chain.
Row 2 Chain 2, 2HDC into each stitch, slst to top of the chain (24)
Row 3 Chain 2, *2HDC into the first stitch, HDC into the second stitch*. Continue from * to* around. Sl st to top of chain (36)
The toe is now complete.
Row 4 This is the start of our shell pattern, which is worked in groups of 6 stitches.
Ch1, SC into first stitch, skip 2 stitches then work 5 DC into the 4th stitch (this creates your first shell), skip the next two stitches, the first set of 6 stitches is now complete.
Anchor the shell with a SC to start your second set of 6 stitches – *skip 2, 5DC, sk2, SC*. Continue around from * to * until you have 6 sets of shells. Slst to the first stitch. (36)
Row 5 Ch3, work 2DC into the same stitch (this creates half a shell, which sits on top of a SC below, we will create the other half when we’ve worked our way around).
*Sk2, anchor with a SC on top of the shell below, sk2 then 5DC into the SC below*. Continue from * to * until you return to your chain3 and 2DC in one stitch, we can complete this shell with 2 more DC in the stitch now to give us a total of 1 chain plus 4DC.
Sl st the DC to the top of the chain to complete your shell.
Repeat Row 4&5 two more times each until you have 6 rows of shells.
CREATE THE HEEL
Ch1 then work one SC into each of the next 18 stitches, ch1 and turn
SC into 17 stitches, ch1 and turn
SC into 16 stitches, ch1 and turn
SC into 15 stitches, ch1 and turn
SC into 14 stitches, ch1 and turn
SC into 13 stitches, ch1 and turn
SC into 12 stitches, ch1 and turn
Now for the fun part, we are going to ‘turn the heel’to create a 3d effect!
Work 12 SC then insert the hook into the side edge of the stitch and draw up a loop.
Insert the hook into the side of the stitch below and draw up a second loop, you should now have three loops on the hook.
Yarn over and draw through all loops, this is known as 2SCtog or working 2 single crochet together.
Slst into the side edge of the stitch below.
You should now have 13 stitches plus the slst. Turn your work.
Skip the slst and work all single crochet stitches. At the end of the row work 2SCtog as before, then work a slst into the side edge below and turn (14 +1 slst)
Continue with this method of working 2SCtog plus a slst in the edge of the stitch below until you have 18 SC.
This will ensure you have the same number of stitches as you started with (36).
Anchor to the top of the shell with a SC.
The tricky part is done and now you can continue with your shell pattern to create the main part of the stocking.
Your SC should have been stitched onto the top of a shell so now it is easy to sk2, 5DC, sk2, SC as before. I found it easier to continue this pattern and work in the round so I didn’t end up with a seam at the side of the stocking as I would have done if I had repeated the two row work we did for the foot.
Continue working in the round (sk2, 5DC, sk2, SC) until you have 12 rows (or longer if you prefer a really giant stocking). Stop when your hook is in line with the middle of the heel. Anchor with a SC.
Create The Ribbing
Now you have a choice for your stocking top, you can either use SC to match the toe and the heel or you can create a more decorative look as I have.
In either case, ch1.
To create my horizontal ribbed look SC into the back loop only of each stitch around, you can work in the round again to avoid an obvious seam.
I SCBLO for 6 rows but you can add more if you prefer.
Slst to anchor and weave in your ends.